Anlu Getaway: A Family's Journey into History

Duration: 3 days, Time: March, Cost per person: 4000 yuan, Companions: Family, Activities: Photography, Luxury. The author visited these places: Zhujiajiao Lantin. Published on 2020-03-28 01:02. I stumbled upon the term ‘Anlu’ in a magazine, which translates to ‘Peaceful Foothills’. ‘An’ signifies tranquility and stability, while ‘Lu’ refers to the foothills, a secluded dwelling. In the midst of a bustling city, finding a retreat is a rare treasure, and Anlu is just such a sanctuary. The idea of retreating with my child is truly enticing, especially when they’re at that age where even dogs seem to avoid them. My life is filled with chasing and shouting, so stealing a half-day of leisure is a form of self-compassion. Lao Xue suggested that instead of staring at each other at home every day, we should take advantage of the blooming spring and go out for a stroll. That’s how this impromptu three-day, two-night trip came about. Exploring an ancient town and enjoying cherry blossoms were our themes, making Anlu my top choice, not for seclusion from the world, but for a place of solace for the soul. Anlu has its own hotels in both Shanghai Zhujiajiao and Shaoxing. The historic Zhujiajiao ancient town, with its clusters of ancient buildings and rich historical atmosphere, and the blooming cherry blossoms in Shaoxing, matched our desires. Plus, the two-hour drive between them is very convenient for a self-drive trip. Speaking of Zhujiajiao, many people think of the ancient town that has been around for over 1700 years, still preserving clusters of ancient buildings and a strong sense of history. However, perhaps because it’s too famous and attracts too many visitors, it loses the tranquility that an ancient town should have. That’s why I prefer Anlu next to Zhujiajiao, separated by a wall that blocks out the noise, leaving behind the sediment of history and tranquility. It takes about an hour’s drive from downtown Shanghai to Anlu Zhujiajiao. Once the car is parked in the underground garage, a concierge comes over to help with the luggage. The first time I heard of Anlu, I simply thought the name was pleasant and memorable. Later, I learned that it is a sister brand of Aman. Zhujiajiao Anlu is the first hotel opened by Anlu in China. There are always those who wish to retreat, but it’s hard to find a place to escape from the world, and Anlu seems to exist for this very reason. Unlike other hotels that merely imitate ancient styles, Anlu embeds Chinese architectural culture into its core. The buildings here are all derived from century-old Huizhou ancient buildings, with every tile and beam gently narrating the historical changes of the past. The ‘Wu Feng Lou’ at Zhujiajiao Anlu is a group of Ming Dynasty ancient houses with a history of six hundred years. This 600-year-old Ming Dynasty Huizhou ancient building, after being meticulously restored by craftsmen, has been faithfully restored in this ancient town of Zhujiajiao with a history of a thousand years, becoming a temporary retreat for many.
The hotel lobby is situated within the Wu Feng Building, hailed as the ‘First Official Hall of Jiangnan’, exuding an imposing presence with the rustic charm of Ming and Qing dynasty architecture. The Wu Feng Building is a quintessential example of Huizhou-style architecture, adhering to the layout of ‘five front and seven back rooms, three progressions and two sky wells’. Every brick and wood whisper stories of the ‘slow pace’ of that era, a unique allure of ancient buildings. Walking within the Wu Feng Building, one escapes the city’s clamor, as if time itself slows down and the heart finds tranquility. The words ‘Never Forget the Original Intention’ inside the lobby seem to reveal the essence of inner peace. The tea table in the hall is adorned with scrolls, guzheng, ink brushes, and inkstones, adding a distinctive flavor, along with toys from our childhood such as shuttlecocks and tops. I picked up one and showed it to Casper, saying, ‘Hey, look, this is a toy from mom’s childhood.’ The hotel rooms are discreetly tucked behind this Ming dynasty official hall, with independent villa-style rooms creating a private space for guests. After thorough research before booking, I opted for the Yangting Pavilion, which is considered the basic room type. The hotel offers 35 villas and four types of rooms, each with its own exclusive private garden. Therefore, in terms of cost-effectiveness, the Yangting Pavilion is unrivaled. After completing the check-in, our butler escorted us to the room and carefully explained the basic facilities. Unlike the ancient charm of the Wu Feng Building, the rooms exude a modern ambiance, with elegant wooden decorations and soft lighting that give the room a subtle yet luxurious feel. Despite the chilly spring, the room was as warm as spring itself, with sunlight streaming in through the large floor-to-ceiling windows, providing extra warmth. The independent air conditioning system allows for worry-free use, even during the pandemic. The entire room is also equipped with underfloor heating, which is very considerate for toddlers who like to run around barefoot. A king-size double bed provides ample space, even with a child who sleeps restlessly. The hotel’s bed is extremely comfortable, living up to its reputation as a Swedish 100-year brand with a seven-foot bed that is neither too soft nor too hard. If the child is accustomed to sleeping separately, the hotel can also prepare a separate baby bed in advance. The space in the bathroom can be described as spacious, with dual basins placed symmetrically at both ends, exuding a traditional Chinese sense of balance. In addition to having a separate shower and toilet, there is also a large bathtub, ensuring that the baby has a place for a soothing bath at night. Although Anlu is not primarily known for its family-friendly reputation, it does not have an abundance of toys, tents, rocking horses, etc., so calling it a family hotel might not be entirely accurate. However, as a high-end brand hotel, it may be more suitable for families with children than ordinary family hotels.

In addition to the essential items prepared specifically for our child, such as toothbrushes, toothpaste, exclusive bath products, and small slippers, what’s more important is that the cultural depth here can subtly influence our child, allowing for earlier exposure to Chinese traditional culture. The most captivating feature for Casper within the entire room was the courtyard. Every plant and tree represented his exploration of his own small world. Within his own private and independent space, we didn’t need to stand guard, allowing us to let him play freely without worry. Retreating is not about austerity but rather enriching the heart. At the Anlu Hotel in Zhujiajiao, there’s no need to worry about boredom, as it’s easy to find ways to enjoy life here. I’ve always been interested in cooking. Cooking is not synonymous with being a disheveled, careworn woman. You don’t necessarily have to wield a large ladle over a blazing fire. In fact, learning to make some Western-style pastries can also add a sense of ceremony to your life. Therefore, we booked a sandwich-making class at the hotel in advance. This seemingly simple sandwich, to be delicious, requires considerable skill. The class took place in Anlu’s all-day dining restaurant, which is adjacent to the pool with a full落地 glass wall design, offering a panoramic view of the azure swimming pool. Chef Jason had already prepared the ingredients in the restaurant. Upon seeing us, a smile rose in his eyes, and his speech was unhurried, much like the sunlight outside the window, inexplicably healing. Jason demonstrated with the ingredients while giving simple and easy-to-understand explanations: how to toast the bread to achieve the best texture? How to maintain the crispiness of the bread? How to prevent the sandwich from being dry and hard? It was all practical knowledge that even a kitchen novice could quickly learn. When the sandwiches came out of the oven, Casper could no longer contain himself. The crust was crispy, and the first bite was soft, with rich fillings and a mellow sauce, making the little guy completely forget about his image… I suddenly looked forward to their dinner. After this special afternoon tea, we took Casper for a walk by the pool. The long-lost sunshine, blue sky and white clouds, and the vibrancy of spring～ Zhujiajiao Anlu is like an artwork suitable for slow appreciation, precipitating the essence of Chinese ancient architectural culture. Walking to the main entrance of the Wufeng Building, one can better feel the grandeur of the entire building. The five pairs of winged corners resemble a phoenix spreading its wings, hence the name. The plaque on the door, ‘Dafu Di’, exudes an official aura. The pair of stone lions at the entrance guard the master’s auspicious peace, one female and one male, symbolizing both prosperity of offspring and power. Upon closer inspection of these two lions, they are indeed exquisitely crafted, even their gazes are different. The female lion looks inward, while the male lion looks into the distance, implying the division of labor within the household, with the man as the breadwinner and the woman managing the home.
Chinese architecture is renowned for its intricate details, each stroke telling a story. The beams are carved with mythical creatures such as Qilin, Pixiu, and Magpies, symbols of longevity, immortality, and wealth, crafted with exceptional delicacy and lifelike form. Even the weathered door lintels bear witness to the grandeur of the original inhabitants. I highly recommend taking a guided tour by the housekeeper to hear the tales of the Wu Feng Lou, the essence of Anlu. Stepping into the first courtyard, you embark on a journey through time that blends the elegance of the past with the present. Red lanterns line the corridors, signifying harmony, while the walls display a photography exhibition that, despite being modern, complements the antique ambiance. Walking on the golden bricks, you can feel the history in the eaves, steep walls, and carved beams, creating a serene and rustic atmosphere that is Anlu. Opposite the Wu Feng Lou stands the Late Qing Dynasty opera stage, also with a century of history. The stage features carved dragon pillars and a domed ceiling, a testament to the opulence of history. During cherry blossom season, the two cherry trees beside the stage sway gracefully in the breeze, adding to the charm. For dinner, without leaving the hotel, you can savor Anlu’s cuisine. If you’re with a group, consider booking a private room facing the Wu Feng Lou, with a view of the stage and floor-to-ceiling windows that blend the scenery into the room, creating a private and tranquil dining experience. Visiting Zhujiajiao, you must try the famous water town specialties, among which Bai Shui fish, one of the ‘Three Whites of Taihu Lake,’ is a must-try. Although I found Bai Shui fish to be bony and bland when steamed, Anlu’s rendition was a revelation, offering a delicacy akin to the prized shad fish. Yan Du Xian, a classic Shanghai dish made with seasonal ingredients, is especially comforting in spring when bamboo shoots are tender. A bowl of ‘Yan Du Xian’ with its vintage Shanghai flavor warms both the heart and the stomach. However, the favorite is their Yang Zhi Gan Lu dessert, sweet but not cloying, with a perfectly placed scoop of ice cream. The dishes, with their vibrant colors and healthy, light flavors, are perfect for children. Casper is eager to try each dish, and the nutritious taste ensures that the baby eats with peace of mind. After dinner, the room is prepared with a turndown service and a health-preserving dessert tailored to the twenty-four solar terms, ensuring a restful night’s sleep.
Steal a moment of leisure in a busy life. Waking up in the morning, I pre-booked breakfast to be delivered to the room. One Chinese set and one Western set satisfy the different tastes of me and Lao Xue. The morning sunlight shines warmly into the room through the floor-to-ceiling windows, starting a new day with a sense of ceremony. What a wonderful thing. The two foodies beside me have already started eating impatiently. Yesterday, I made an appointment with the butler for a Tai Chi class this morning. I don’t know much about Tai Chi, but it can’t stop me from experiencing the charm of this ancient fitness art from the East. The hotel has already placed Tai Chi uniforms in the closet. After changing clothes, I take Casper and, facing the morning dawn, practice a session of Tai Chi in Dafudi to cultivate my body and mind. With each punch and stance, I feel the harmony between yin and yang in the world. With every move, using stillness to overcome motion and softness to overcome hardness, it seems that time stands still between every breath… Mom is practicing martial arts, and the son can’t be idle either. Holding a writing brush, he splashes ink and doodles, looking like he is determined to study literature. After the class, I take my son to stroll around Wufenglou. Looking up in the lobby, the rows of wooden windows on the second floor are the Shuxiangge. In the past, it was the embroidery building for young ladies and the boudoir of women. Now, it has become Shuxiangge. As the name suggests, it is the library of Anlu, quiet and leisurely, a good place for reading. On one side of the stairs going up is a children’s play area. With this precious place, Casper is temporarily quiet. Even with a child, one can steal a moment of leisure and read a few chapters of one’s favorite books. In a corner of Shuxiangge, there is a table with scriptures and writing brushes, ink, paper, and inkstones. Copying scriptures can easily calm one’s impetuous heart. Time passes between the fingers, and one can sit for a long time. Casper is exposed to these writing tools for the first time and naturally finds them fresh. He pretends to draw on the paper, which is very interesting. Traditional culture still needs to be inherited. This is true for architectural craftsmen and also for literati. Letting children know more about Chinese traditional art broadens their horizons, increases their knowledge, and learns traditions. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why I choose Anlu. The spa and Yangxin Pavilion of his family are also one of the characteristics. Unfortunately, they are not open during the epidemic, so we can only leave it for the next time to experience this unique comfort. Return to the room to pack up and start our second leg of the journey, Shaoxing Lanting Anlu. Escape into a fairyland far from the hustle and bustle. From Zhujiajiao, Shanghai to Shaoxing, it takes about two hours by car. Coming down from the Shaozhu Expressway, it takes about five minutes to reach. Lanting Anlu is named after being inspired by Wang Xizhi’s ‘Preface to the Orchid Pavilion Collection’. Therefore, the construction of the entire hotel tries to restore the scenes of ‘luxuriant mountains and tall bamboos’ and ‘rushing clear streams’ described in the poem as much as possible, like a poem and a dream.
If Zhujiajiao Anlu is likened to a secluded lady hidden in a centuries-old ancient town, then Lanting Anlu can be considered a fairyland at the foot of the mountains, absorbing the essence of heaven and earth. Similar to Zhujiajiao Anlu, the architecture here is also relocated from Huizhou, restored to its original appearance, and refurbished to look as old as new. After parking your vehicle in the parking area, a dedicated shuttle service will transport you to the hotel lobby, which is not far from the parking spot. If you’re not burdened with heavy luggage, it is recommended to walk, as you will encounter many cherry blossom-lined paths along the way, which are quite beautiful. The hotel lobby is located within the General’s Mansion, a building that was also relocated from Anhui, featuring typical Huizhou-style architecture. The General’s Mansion has a dual courtyard layout, providing excellent lighting, and the thick and solemn winter melon beam can be considered a treasure within the entire structure. Inside the General’s Mansion, you will find numbers marked on the pillars, which are not the work of any mischievous child, but rather markings made by workers to better restore the building by numbering and recording the original positions of each piece of material, which are then gradually restored. Finding old craftsmen and materials, they strive to restore the original style as much as possible. While these steps sound routine, each one presents a challenge. As the number of craftsmen in ancient buildings decreases and old wood is eroded over time, you will realize that this is not just a house, but a treasure of human architectural culture. It is only upon arriving at Lanting Anlu that you might understand the meaning of ‘without the inheritance of culture, how can a true legend begin.’ We check in at the hotel lobby, where Yangming Pavilion or Lanting Pavilion are the star room types here, both being old houses with their own private courtyards, which is the essence of Anlu. Every corner is filled with the owner Mr. Zhong’s personal collections. Unable to bear the demolition of old houses due to dilapidation, he collected them and invested heavily to invite many ancient building masters and traditional craftsmen to carve and restore them, reviving the old houses’ warmth. Buildings without cultural heritage ultimately lack soul, and the ancient houses before us once held whose stories, and in the future, how many stories will be played out here. Yangming Pavilion and Lanting Pavilion do not differ much in terms of room layout; the difference lies only in the view from the window. Yangming Pavilion faces the bamboo forest and mountain scenery, while Lanting Pavilion is built by the water, looking across the river at the undulating mountains on the opposite bank. If in Zhujiajiao Anlu we stayed in a room, then in Shaoxing Lanting Anlu, we stayed in a house, with a courtyard in front, enjoying the flowers and listening to the rain.
Behind the door lies a balcony with a view of the bamboo forest. A house with a courtyard is ideal for bringing children, as it becomes their own paradise where they can observe flowers, grass, and rocks, which constitute their world. If you have stayed at Aman Summer Palace, you might feel a sense of déjà vu here, as this place is also designed by Aman’s favored designer Jaya, with very regular room layouts. The living room is centrally located, dividing the space into bedroom and bathroom areas on either side, with the three spaces almost equally divided, giving you an idea of the vastness of the entire area. With two doors open, you can immediately see the beautiful mountain scenery. The high ceiling design of the guest rooms makes the rooms spacious and bright, and even old houses do not feel gloomy or oppressive. At night, lying in bed and looking at the high beams, one truly feels like they are traveling back in time to centuries past, as if they were a noble lady in a general’s mansion. Despite being in the mountains, the rooms are equipped with air conditioning and floor heating, so there is no need to worry about Casper running around barefoot and catching a cold. The guest rooms also prepare parent-child toiletries, along with a retro red umbrella, which perfectly matches the ambiance here, although Casper doesn’t know how to play with it yet and simply turns the umbrella into a hat. Lanting Anlu is definitely a great place to escape the hustle and bustle, with the hotel’s exclusive green mountains and clear waters, avoiding the crowds and creating a unique tranquil space. Along the Ruoye Stream, strolling with Casper, the sounds of birds and flowing water fill the ears. The Ruoye Concert Hall, adjacent to the stream, is also relocated from a traditional Hui-style ancient architectural complex and is available for various meetings. Surrounding the concert hall is a cherry blossom forest, and it is cherry blossom season now, making it perfect for parents to bring their children here. The grey tiles and white walls of the Hui-style buildings, set against the cherry blossoms in full bloom, are picturesquely beautiful. Further along the path is the Lanting spa and activity center, with the azure pool reflecting the white walls and black tiles. If you visit in summer, this place is sure to be a great spot for splashing around in the water. After leaving the pool and passing a waterside pavilion, one might wonder why the stone steps are arranged in such a way. The staff explain that many events are often held here, such as wine tastings, or practicing yoga in the early morning to absorb the essence of the landscape. No wonder Anlu does not provide indoor gym facilities; since choosing to retreat, one should naturally integrate with nature. Continuing upstream along the stream, one can see the Jianlong Pool, a vast lake scenery that instantly makes one feel refreshed and at ease. Casper even spotted schools of small fish in the lake, watching them swim around with great joy. The Hui-style old houses reflected in the water form a natural picture scroll. Lanting Anlu is actually located in a valley, surrounded by mountains, one of which is a branch of the famous Kuaiji Mountain in Shaoxing, and this place also contains fascinating cultural treasures.
For those who enjoy mountain climbing, they can follow the stone steps. Here is an exclusive passage for guests of Lanting Anlu to view the tenth cave heaven of Taoism – Longrui Palace. If there is still energy left, one can continue upwards to reach the viewing pavilion on the mountainside and overlook the entire Lanting Anlu from the pavilion. With Casper by my side, naturally I give up this thought. When he is older, perhaps he can help me climb the mountain… Children should belong to nature. In this landscape, they release their own innocence. The hotel is indeed very large. After a tour around, it gets late. We choose to dine in the all-day restaurant in the hotel. The restaurant is very close to our room. We can solve three meals a day here. Shaoxing is located in the south of the Yangtze River. The special dishes also suit the taste of people from Shanghai. However, when coming here, it is still necessary to taste the seasonal dishes. Cured products such as bacon are also specialties here. I especially like the chef’s plate arrangements. Every dish is made into a work of art. Just looking at it makes people’s appetites grow. To test whether the ingredients are fresh, whether the food is delicious and whether it is attractive, I think a child’s taste buds are the most honest. Casper can’t wait to climb onto the table. He takes spoonfuls of the silver thread seafood soup one after another, and takes bites of the mellow and smooth foie gras one after another. The combination of crab roe and oranges is also his favorite. Since we are in Shaoxing, we still have to taste the most characteristic soy sauce-flavored steamed combination here. Various delicious cured meats are combined. This is the taste only available during the Spring Festival. Handmade pan-fried buns are also a special dish here. I heard that the master who makes pan-fried buns has also won a pastry award in Shaoxing. Different from pan-fried buns in Shanghai, his buns have a crispy and soft skin and are fragrant and crispy. After dinner, Casper takes a bath. Surprisingly, he goes to bed before 8 o’clock. Increasing physical activity is indeed a good way to make his schedule regular. So we also have more time for ourselves. A rare moment of peace. Start parent-child entertainment time. In the morning, when I open the door, there are green mountains and clear waters, blue sky and white clouds. I made an appointment for breakfast to be delivered to the room at 8:30. It is very punctual. It is still a Chinese and Western breakfast, but the varieties are not the same. Casper gulps down a bowl of hot noodles and is ready to start a new day. Today we are going to take Casper to pick strawberries in the strawberry garden. It is about a 10-minute drive from Anlu to the strawberry garden. I used to not understand why people go to pick strawberries. Obviously, you can buy cheap and delicious strawberries, but you have to pick them in the fields by yourself. Only after going there did I find out that this is the joy of life, especially for a child. This is Casper’s first time picking strawberries in his life. Holding a small basket, he is very excited. The strawberry garden is very clean. There are many sheds of different sizes, and the strawberry varieties are also different.
Some grow on the ground, while others are cultivated on shelves for easy picking. Casper’s first reaction upon seeing the strawberries was not to place them in the basket, but to taste them immediately. As an instinct of human nature, it is quite understandable. Gradually gaining experience, Casper, with a serious expression, scrutinizes which strawberries are redder and more delicious. Unable to pick some himself, he would call out to his mother softly, and I would eagerly go to his assistance. The strawberries that made it into his basket were his, with a sense of ownership that others should not touch. After picking, the strawberries were weighed in the basket, costing 35 yuan per kilogram, which is not cheap, but the purchase is for the enjoyment. Considering the many strawberries that might have been crushed by my son, it felt quite a good deal. Come and see our bountiful harvest. The days spent in Lanting Anlu always feel exceptionally carefree, perhaps because of the lake, the scenery, or the old houses that carry the weight of history, freezing time and calming the restless heart. Back at the restaurant, when the weather is suitable, one must come here for an afternoon tea, enjoying the expansive terrace with a view of lush greenery, where white walls and black tiles blend in, leisurely relishing the sweet afternoon tea. During cherry blossom season, it is natural to order a cherry blossom afternoon tea, exclusive to this season, with delicate pink and tender desserts that one cannot resist kissing each one. The desserts come in sweet and savory varieties, small and exquisite, satisfying different tastes. One serving is more than enough for a family of three, with some packed to be eaten as snacks on the way back. During the few days in Anlu, finding a pure land and a tranquil heart has been the greatest gain, and when the cicadas sing in midsummer, we will return to reminisce.

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